Valentino / Fall 2013

"We believe that couture can be a private luxury—not just for the red carpet or special occasions," said Maria Grazia Chiuri. "So we wanted to really work on daywear for the first time." At Valentino, Chiuri and her design partnerPierpaolo Piccioli already own a beautiful look that has swept through fashion—that slim, Renaissance-virginal dress with long sleeves so many young women adore. This collection affirmed their authority in the decorative, breathtaking arts of evening dressing in a spirit Piccioli describes as "regal." A glance at the long ivory and pale gold lace dress with an exquisite scalloped-edged train or the column of beige velvet with chrome yellow flower appliqués, or the silver-sprigged, cloudy gray chiffon gown under a tweed floor-length cape illustrates what he means. For all their extravagance, there's a quietly dignified presence about these clothes which keeps them from being "princessy."